Located on the attractive, lively San Domenico Maggiore Square, the Gran Caffè Neapolis is a peaceful oasis, perfect for a spot of people watching among the crowds. The croissants aren't too sweet, the sfogliatelle  (puff pastries filled with ricotta) are delicious and the coffee ("ristretto" for me) is just perfect. In the later afternoon, or if the morning is a very hot one, go for a  "caffè del nonno" (grandfather coffee). This cold dessert, halfway between coffee cream and mousse, is enjoyed using a small spoon. A fine spot to start the day, even if the prices are a little high for Naples.

A beautiful decor, succulent products, and a raft of famous historical visitors. What could be better than starting the day at Caffè Gambrinus, wondering where Oscar Wilde and Giuseppe Verdi used to sit? The setting is magnificent, the pastries delicious: the perfect place to slowly shake the sleep from your eyes.

Coffee in Naples is always good, but at Caffè Mexico, it becomes truly exceptional. The ritual never varies: the waiters, in traditional, rather classy outfits, ask you if you prefer still ("liscia" or "naturale") or sparkling ("frizzante") water. When the glass arrives, start by hydrating yourself before tasting your coffee. The idea is to retain its fine taste and flavours in your mouth and not to dilute them like a vulgar tourist. A tip: if you enjoy the bitter flavour of coffee, don't forget to ask for it without sugar ("senza zucchero"), or else you'll end up with a heavily-sweetened beverage. To give you an idea, it's rather like Moroccan mint tea. Sugaring coffee is very widespread in Naples, so be sure to specify each time that you prefer your coffee au naturel. There is a second Caffè Mexico near the railway station, but it is less impressive.

This is the place to buy mozzarella "di bufala". Every day, the Cremeria receives mozzarella balls from the neighbouring Campania region. Its freshness is unrivalled. Drop in during the morning or early afternoon, or else there's a good chance that others will snap up the entire stock before you! You can also buy charcuterie, pasta and parmesan cheese here. Everything is low-priced and of the highest quality.  

Don't forget, here Neapolitian, not Italian, is spoken (shouted). Located in the Spanish quartier, this small family restaurant is highly popular. The menu features seasonal produce, the pasta is superb and the prices are very reasonable (at the maximum 15 euros per person, drink included), so be prepared to wait to be served. Lunchtime is the better option, because in the evening they will often hurry you along. A pleasant restaurant with an appealing simplicity.

Perfect for an inexpensive lunch on the go. This pizzeria opens a little stand on the street in the afternoon and sells quarters of large, delicious pizzas, folded in two, for 1 euro. And at the same price for all types of pizza!

A pleasant little restaurant which only has one specialty: the "ragù alla napoletana", ("O rraù" in Neapolitian dialect), a tomato-based sauce in which various meats (veal, pork etc.), onions, red wine, olive oil and basil are very slowly simmered at a low heat. If you don't have an Italian grandmother at hand to prepare this sauce, this is certainly the next best thing. A vegetarian "ragù" is also available.

The Scaturchio bakery is the very best spot for discovering Naples' two dessert specialities: sfogliatella and rum babas. The shell-shaped sfogiatella is a flaky pastry which is typical for the region. Scaturchio's version is filled with ricotta and lemon confit. Deliciously crispy! The very phallic form of the gigantic rum babas will surely elicit a giggle. It is very liberally flavoured with rum (good thing that you can go everywhere on foot in Naples!). You can enjoy the classic form, or with Nutella, à la "panna" (with Chantilly cream) or with fruits. Try the classic form first, even though I prefer the à la "panna" version. If a table is available, grab it immediately; otherwise, you can take your pastry away with you. It's cheaper and you will be provided with a cardboard plate and plastic cutlery. 

Awarded a "golden cone", this ice-cream parlour is really out to dazzle. Unending combinations and colours of cones and ices in all forms will make young and old alike see stars. Creativity, fresh produce and a desire to impress the audience make a winning team! The biscotti-pistachio combination on a gelato fantasy cone should convince you...to return. A practical tip: particularly when it's crowded, don't forget to pay at the till before ordering your ice-cream.  

This is a great place to pick up a fine bottle of red wine before going out. Try the  Lacryma Christi (Tears of Christ), a Neapolitian specialty, which is produced on the nearby slopes of Vesuvius. This wine was already highly prized in the Roman era, and has retained its popularity to this day. You can also discover a neighbouring Sicilian, such as Nero d’Avola, Falanghina or Piedirosso.