Located on the attractive, lively San Domenico Maggiore Square, the Gran Caffè Neapolis is a peaceful oasis, perfect for a spot of people watching among the crowds. The croissants aren't too sweet, the sfogliatelle  (puff pastries filled with ricotta) are delicious and the coffee ("ristretto" for me) is just perfect. In the later afternoon, or if the morning is a very hot one, go for a  "caffè del nonno" (grandfather coffee). This cold dessert, halfway between coffee cream and mousse, is enjoyed using a small spoon. A fine spot to start the day, even if the prices are a little high for Naples.