"I've a photo of myself at the age of 10 in my underwear at my grandfather's. I'm trampling grapes with my feet to make grappa", says Rafaelle, passing me some of his cousin's grappa at the village festival of Pacengo di Lazise, beside the Garde lake. This grape-based eau-de-vie is produced all over Italy and is transparent when it emerges from the still. The best varieties are, however, aged in oak barrels and acquire a beautiful amber tint. Use tulip glasses, which will distance the alcohol from your nose while retaining all the flavours.
